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Bitty Buttress
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Reveille 

5.10d

   

FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 121 page views

Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 5, 2003


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Bitty Buttress is closed from February 1 to July 31 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a semi-trad variation of "Rise and Shine". After the first 5 bolts on "R&S" (.10d) stay right, in the dihedral for another 40' aiming for the anchors on "R&S". The route follows the old aid line in the corner until the aid line takes on the big roof pierced by a thin crack. The upper dihedral is mostly .9+ until the very end (.10b) before the anchor.

This is a fun variation that gives an up-close view of the tempting but intimidating huge wave of rock covering this nicely sheltered alcove.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 90'. Gear to #3 Friend. Long slings on first two bolts.