Start at the end of the gully about 70' up from The Buzz. Rise and Shine climbs the first half of an old aid route 40' left of The Lorax, and then stays on the face where the aid route moves right. Stem across a slot and clip the first bolt (long sling). Maneuver up into the dihedral system past 5 bolts (.10d) to a good ledge and a rest. Continue up a pumpy face to a crux at bolt #9, and then hang on 'til the finish.
The well-protected climbing is deceptively steep and continuous on good holds the entire way. There are no .12 moves on it, but the accumulation of .11 moves make it feel like .12a when stringing it all together. The climbs in this alcove get great morning sun and little wind making them good winter routes.
Protection
11 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor, 90'. Use long slings on first two bolts.
This may be the best 12a in Boulder Canyon, reminiscent of limestone climbing if you can believe it. And honest at the grade too. I thought the crux, unquestionably, was getting started on the upper face at bolt #6. The upper part is very pumpy featuring a burly match on a sloping horn... maybe a redpoint crux for some, but not as technically difficult as lower down. Watch out for some bad rock in the initial corner. The trad variation to the upper part is excellent, and worthy of 3 stars as well.
Bitty Buttress
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