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Bitty Buttress
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The Lorax 

5.13b

   

FA: Jim Redo
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 564 page views

Submitted By: Jim Redo on Jan 29, 2003


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Bitty Buttress is closed from February 1 to July 31 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is to the right of The Buzz (5.12d) in the amphitheatre right of the actual Bitty Buttress route. Scramble up to a ledge below a bolt about ten feet above you and belay. Climb up and clip the first bolt and gain a semi-exposed ledge. Clip the second bolt, and lay down and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The meat of the climb is three boulder problems separated by rests with the rests getting worse after each boulder problem. Probably, the most continuously steep route in the canyon and maybe a stiff 13b at that.


Protection 

10 bolts. Reach down and unclip the first bolt after you clip the second to reduce rope drag.



Add Comment Comments on The Lorax
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By Joe Collins
Jun 9, 2006

What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock. The route is currently modified as is.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 6, 2006

The glue should go. It's a deliberately created hold that doesn't appear to be necessary. Until it's cleaned up, it's an AO route.