This route is on the right side of Higher Security Risk, about a minute uphill from Upper Security Risk. It's the thin crack that starts at the low point of the wall and angles slightly right. A thin right facing flake angle from the right, meeting the crack half way up.
This is a nice steep "slab" with strenuous moves on positive holds. The hard climbing (10ish) starts right off the ground. There are stemming opportunities to the right depending on your height and flexibility. The crux is at the 4th bolt and was balancy and reachy for me. I had a hard time clipping the last bolt, just after the crux, because I was stressed out and burned out. Actually, it was easy--I grabbed the draw.
This thin crack is in fact a terrific little line requiring a good capacity to lock into tips-only placements. This is a fine line and well worth two stars. I did this several years ago with a friend who lost their footing with the locks established. The crack is just thin and deep enough to keep your fingers if you lose the feet. It took her close to a year to get the function back in two joints. Good rock, nice moves if you are ready.
Higher Security Risk
RSS Feed
