Is this the steepest 5.9 sport route in Boulder Canyon? Quite possibly so, and it is certainly one of the best new moderate additions in quite some time.
Approach by walking under the lower Coney Island climbs past Dampened Enthusiasm, then move up a bit and continue right then down a grassy slope until you see bolts. Upper Coney is above you - do not go there.
Start as for Pri-Moe. Climb scaly but okay rock past 4 bolts, and step right onto a big shelf. Gaze at the steep and intimidating headwall, then cast off on subtle but amazing jugs and swarm to the top. Many people will involuntarily whoop somewhere in this section. Great position and outlandish climbing make this an instant classic!
The route faces almost due east and gets great sun in the morning.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 29, 2002 rating: 5.9-
A steep, exciting and fun route. The crux headwall is height-dependent and may be harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. I'm 6'2", and was just able to reach a key handhold to pull myself onto the ledge atop the headwall.
A note on the approach: this climb and Pri-Moe are on a crag about 100 yards right of Lower Coney Island.From Lower Coney Island, head right and follow a path that traverses a grassy hillside to the crag, then head around the right side and up the hill a bit until you see the bolts.
Steep, exciting and fun.
Crux is height-dependent; probably harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers.
What a fun route! This website rocks! I would put in my own 2 cents regarding finding the climb, take the right fork, go past lower coney island. upper coney island is now above you. One could reasonably argue that this climb is on upper coney island, just split from the main face by an upward traversing gully reminescent of the ramp on Bell Buttress up to Cosmosis. To find No Name, basically just catch up with the Upper Coney trail after passing Lower, keep going right, staying close to the wall, the wall and trail will pass a low point and then turn left and head uphill to the north, finding the climbs shortly. We did the "down grassy" slope and ended up in Road Bomb City poking around the top of a roadcut cliff. To be avoided.
This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout.
The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part.
Climbed this excellent new route on the east fin of Coney Island on 6/11 with Snipes, McClenehan and Alkaitas. Consensus was BC 9- or Gunks 5.6. Good position and a quality rock, well equipped.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 22, 2005 rating: 5.9-
The route seemed much easier than the last time I did it; Boulder Canyon 9-.
I agree with Kyle; this would be a 6 or 7 in the Gunks: much easier than Thin Slabs Direct (7+) or Modern Times (8+).
Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!! It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss, but climbs as well as the top.
As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime.
Coney Island
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