Pri-Moe 

Make sure you bring friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing,but watch out for the loose block.

For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritis, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: The 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger sized cams, I also placed a 2, 2.5 and 3 friend. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts?

Hey Chris, how did you really feel about the route?

Not one of my best. Can't hit a home run every trip to the plate.

Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a 3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.

Thanks!

Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux.