BETA PHOTO: Hillbilly Rock #1, Left Side. I Reckon, 12a...
Description
This is the 3rd climb from the left on this cliff. Deceptive. Move thuggishly past a bolt to a ledge, then step up to the confounding crux. This goes two ways, straight up or surf left (harder & reachier), but both are way reachy. Above, easier but absorbing climbing takes you to the anchors.
One of of the key crux holds (towards the left) stays wet late into the morning after an overnight rain. Thankfully, the hold is so big that the water isn't a significant issue.
The Rolofson guidebook calls this PG-13 between the second and third bolt. After a move just above the bolt, you get good holds to clip the third bolt. You can even get a red Black Diamond C3 in a crack a couple feet above the bolt if you want it. Good route that is worth doing so be careful, but don't let the PG-13 rating keep you from doing the route.
The crux didn't seem dangerous at all. After bolt 2, reach up and left. This is the crux, and it is right above the bolt. The next moves to the bolt are juggy. There doesn't seem to be any groundfall potential so I wouldn't be worried about leading it if you are pushing the grade.