Start R of Teetotaler. Follow the path; you can set the belay on a couple of different flat spots. You can't miss this dihedral. Climb easy terrain (with good pro if you want it) up to the base of the dihedral, perhaps 40 feet. Now head straight up. The pro is good, and you can stem or layback your way up it. I thought the pitch was harder than Grins (to the left, a 5.8), perhaps because the protection is not as easy as Grins. Regardless, this is a fun pitch, well worth doing.
Protection
Standard rack with hexes up to #10. At the top of the dihedral, you can set an anchor (tricam/cams/stoppers). You can also traverse left to anchors, but you'll get rope drag. Finally, you can go all the way to the top. I set an anchor, brought up the 2nd, then traversed to the bolts and rapped on a 60m rope.
The protection gets a little thin (small nuts) a few moves into the dihedral, but I was still able to put about 12 pieces into this route, and they all seemed quite solid. This thing eats medium cams--I used a #.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, a #3, and a #3.5 camalots, plus a couple of stoppers (#4, #9, and #13, I think). Don't be worried about the pro.
The stems are fun, but the good part of the route is so short that I'm not really sure it's worth it. Happy Hour has a lot of better climbs.
Protection was good the whole way. The option for easy stemming through the crux makes this a 5.7. Pretty short, but worth the quick go.
By David M Jones From: Boulder, CO Jul 12, 2009 rating: 5.7
Toproped this route with my 7 year old daughter and my friend Monique who is mostly an indoor climber. We all had a good time. This is a good route to toprope since their are plenty of anchoring locations at the top and the route is almost entirely vertical except for the very bottom. It is also a good climb for enthusiastic but non-hard-core kids; not too much of an approach, a fairly short route and a relatively nice place to hang out at the bottom.
Only 2 stars because it was so short... I thought the moves felt harder than on Malign. I agree with the 5.7 rating although it felt hard for a Happy Hour 5.7.
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