Start R of Teetotaler. Follow the path; you can set the belay on a couple of different flat spots. You can't miss this dihedral. Climb easy terrain (with good pro if you want it) up to the base of the dihedral, perhaps 40 feet. Now head straight up. The pro is good, and you can stem or layback your way up it. I thought the pitch was harder than Grins (to the left, a 5.8), perhaps because the protection is not as easy as Grins.Regardless, this is a fun pitch, well worth doing.
Protection
Standard Rack with hexes up to #10. At the top of the dihedral, you can set an anchor (tricam/cams/stoppers). You can also traverse left to anchors, but you'll get rope drag. Finally, you can go all the way to the top. I set an anchor, brought up the 2nd, then traversed to the bolts and rapped on a 60M rope.
The protection gets a little thin (small nuts) a few moves into the dihedral, but I was still able to put about 12 pieces into this route, and they all seemed quite solid. This thing eats medium cams--I used a #.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, a #3, and a #3.5 camalots, plus a couple of stoppers (#4, #9, and #13, I think). Don't be worried about the pro.
The stems are fun, but the good part of the route is so short that I'm not really sure it's worth it. Happy Hour has a lot of better climbs.
The climbing in the dihedral is quite nice but the gully scramble getting there detracts from the route. The rating might be more like 7+. The gear is all good except for one spot where I placed a #4 stopper. A large stopper is available a few feet higher. The gear is great to the top from there. At the top a bomber gear anchor can be set up instead of using the rappel anchor atop Grins. We scrambled up a few feet higher and did the walkoff.
Happy Hour Crag
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