This sustained pitch combines good exposure and wild moves to make a great climb. While not particularly hard, this in not the climb for the 5.9 leader looking to break into 5.10 trad.
It is halfway up the wall, necessitating an approach pitch. The obvious choice is "That's Weak" (bolted 5.10a), an unremarkable, but not unenjoyable face climb. From the bolted anchor at the top of "That's Weak", head up and right to the obvious wide crack. The rock quality at the start of this pitch isn't great, but it doesn't detract from the overall quality of the route. Grunt up the slightly right-leaning wide crack. I recall some fist jamming, liebacking, and placing my 4 Camalot here. As you continue up the corner, it is possible to get a rest before you have to commit to the roof.
I got a good 3 Camalot deep in the crack before swinging into the roof moves, but you may be able to get a 2 instead.The roof is a spectacular mix of stemming and liebacking, and I actually found a no hands rest near the top of it by wedging myself into the slot. Once you are established above the roof, continue up for 10-15 feet to a horizontal crack. From here it is possible to get a directional and head right to the ledge near the top of "Trash It and Move On" and place a gear anchor on the ledge. Or, if you aren't too pumped, continue up the final bulge of "Trash It..." (2-3 bolts, 5.10+) to a bolted rap station.
It is possible to do all the routes on this area of the wall with one 60m rope. From the top of "Trash It...", it is less than 100 ft. back to the bolts at the top of "That's Weak".
Protection
SR to a 4 Camalot. I recall thinking that doubles from 1-3 would not go unused. Anyone else remember?
The original line above the roof went up and left via some funky climbing ,then up and angle right to a ledge about 10 feet above the anchor on "Trash It."
How the hell did this route get a 5.10a rating? My partner and I both thought is was a lot freaking harder than that- the roof is this huge overhanging flake that only an anorexic person could wedge themselves in to. I'd just like to know how this rating stands, it's pretty darn misleading and could get someone in trouble.
I found the roof to be particularly stiff for the grade, especially compared to the so-called 5.10a start up "That's Weak". Unable to employ stemming/layback technique, I resorted to wedging myself into the great crack...quite a grovel. Typical old school but definitely classic!
I found this to be a great route. Definitely an old school-type classic. good pro and solid jams up to the crux roof. The roof goes pretty easily if you walk your feet up the left side until you are horizontal and then reach up. did the climb in '02 and don't remember the sequence that well, but, I found a no hands rest here leaning back after getting my feet up high as mentioned above. I am hardly a solid 5.10 leader, and found this climb to be right on or even a little easy for its grade, though good stemming skills and a strong "head" are required for the exposed crux moves.
Far from 3 stars, but worth doing if you're on the ledge above That's Weak. The roof move is easy-5.10 if you find the easiest way, which didn't involve any grovelling
I would second the recommendation on the gear. Take: 1 #4, doubles from #1-3 Camalots and you'll be comfortable up the crack and through the roof. I have to take issue with the AC whining about the rating and not being able to fit into the roof crack. This is a two-star 10a climb. The excellent hand and foot crack is sweet. Wish it were 100 feet long. I did the roof by underclinging out left with my left foot on a big horn on the left face. Then you move around to get right shoulder behind the projecting roof. Bring your left foot up into a stem. I rested with my left foot pushing my shoulder into the roof. Placed a sweet gold Camalot into a short hand crack and then moved my right root up. I was nearly horizontal but felt totally controlled using hand jams to pull through. This is a trad climb, so it's harder than That's Weak but, in my opinion, a better pitch. Combine them, as I did, for a two-star-plus pitch.
Vampire Rock
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