Carol Kotchek at the bolt near the top of Stigmata...
Description
This is the diagonal finger crack on the right side of The Clipboard. The crack itself gobbles small wires and RPs, and there is a single bolt up high. The shameless can clip the first two bolts on the route to the left to get started.
OK. OK. About the solitary bolt... If you look at the photo (above) you will see that the big flake that forms the right side of the final crack is detached. I decided to place a bolt on the left wall in case the flake ever came loose. At least you will still be attached to the wall, and if your belayer becomes road kill, you can still get down safely.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 28, 2005 rating: 5.10a
I really wish this wall had been tall and skinny instead of short and fat. This is the third route on the wall, and the third route on great rock with great moves. It's also the third route to be only about a third of a route long: about 12 meters... The gear- do you like stoppers or TCU's? A single rack of either + a quickdraw will get you up the route cleanly.
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Aug 28, 2005 rating: 5.9+
Young Doug..Isn't the name of this route "The Stigma" ? This is a very fine piece of granite..this route, it's neighbors, and all of those on the west are really a lot of fun! A good day is to bag all of the lines on this square buttress. Rossiter has a knack for finding some great routes.
Fun route. Too bad it's not a little longer. I led it today and felt like it was no harder than a 5.9-, max. I suppose if you try to keep both your hands and feet in the crack, that'd make it harder (much). But, there's too many options for your feet on the face. Well worth doing, though.