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Clipboard, The 
Stigmata 

The Clipboard 

5.11c

   

FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 464 page views

Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002


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Trying not to use the crack for the right foot. Th...


Description 

The "sheer bolted face" mentioned in the "Another Unknown" (actually Dominator) description is a feature called The Clipboard. This is the middle of three routes. Left is a harder clip-up, and right is a finger crack with one bolt (Stigmata).

The climbing is thin and devious, and it is a real struggle not to grovel right to the Stigmata crack. Nose to the bolts, it seems very stiff indeed. A TR can be easily set after doing Stigmata.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Add Photo Photos of The Clipboard
Clipboard

BETA PHOTO: Clipboard

Marga Powell cruising up The Clipboard. The crux is the small overlap just above her.

Marga Powell cruising up The Clipboard. The crux ...

the full view

the full view


Add Comment Comments on The Clipboard
Show which comments —
By S. Kimball
Sep 26, 2002

Although a sustained climb with excellent and varied holds, it is not 5.11c, possibly 5.10+ or 5.11-. The left hand Clipboard line is closer to 5.11c.

By Chris Archer
Oct 20, 2003
rating: 5.11a

A pretty good short route, but not 11c. Significantly easier than the 11c to the right (Strange Science?)

By Craig Quincy
Dec 9, 2003
rating: 5.11a

This is a nice face climb, but isn't harder than 5.11a.

By Paul Hassett
Aug 8, 2004
rating: 5.11c

Just did this route today, and have done a bunch of routes up at this crag. I am not sure if the folks claiming .11a stayed in the "Stigmata" crack for a while longer, but I tried to stay left, or true to the bolts, and found the moves quite consistent for the grade. While small holds are not really my forte, I can usually onsight this grade, and had a hard time even with the redpoint. Then again, could be a reach thing.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2005
rating: 5.11a

11c... as in FM on the [Elephant's]? harder than Aerospace in Eldo? Nah... 11a. It's easier than The [Scientist] at [Plotinus], which I guess I upgraded against consensus.

This is thin face climbing on excellent rock (or better) and if it were a full pitch long (3 times longer thna it is) it would be a bona-fide classic, but as it stands it has to be listed as simply 40' of the best rock around...a measured compliment.

By Aeon Aki
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.11b

It seems like you could cheat this route a bit by staying right, but no matter how you go, it's guaranteed to be a fun one.