A pumpy line with three distinct cruxes, each successively harder than the last. The first crux is 11d, the next 12a, and the last 12b. Involves intricate stemming and lunging and some significant power at the last crux to avoid the barn door effect.
There is a 2nd pitch.
Per Aeon Aki: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good.
High in the grade for Boulder Canyon; difficult clip at crux.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 6, 2005 rating: 5.12b
12b maybe, yes...But if this is 5.12b, how can Meteor Roadblock be 12a/b there is a relative mile of difficulty between them. I suggest that this route is the more honestly graded of the two.
The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch.
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