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Blob Slab
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A Hike for Y2K 

5.11d

   

FA: Nelson and Rolofson
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 214 page views

Submitted By: richard magill on Sep 8, 2002


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Blob Rock open for climbing MORE INFO >>>

Ivan lines up the crux moves.


Description 

A Hike for Y2K is on the far right side of Blob Slab. It starts off a ledge with a 2-bolt belay anchor (accessed by a short 3rd-class scramble).

This route looks like a complete slab - however, two bulges provide crux moves that are decidedly unslabby. The crux is in the first bulge - thin moves up the bulge on slopers and microcrimps (11+) lead to a decent edge. The main difficulty is you can't see any of the needed holds from under the bulge.

After this, there is a similar sequence at another bulge, although it is much easier (10+) here.

Worthwhile if you've done the gully routes already.


Protection 

7 bolts.



Photos of A Hike for Y2K Slideshow Add Photo
Attempting the direct line.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Attempting the direct line.

Photo by Paul Rezucha...

Beginning the left variation. Work up the slab using small crimps above the lap until you can get your left foot high on crack below the lap.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Beginning the left variation. Work up the slab usi...

The crux of the left variation is standing up on the right foot. There's very little for your hands.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

The crux of the left variation is standing up on t...


Comments on A Hike for Y2K Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
Jan 25, 2004
rating: 5.11b

For someone of my height (6'2" normal reach), I'd call this 11a/b by trad standards. If you can't reach the two long reaches to key edges, this could be a lot harder. Fun route, with consistent 9 and 10 climbing between the two bulges.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.11c

OK, well, I am not Ivan's height, I'm 5'10". I thought the climbing had a few 9+/10a spots, plus the crux, which I'd have guessed at 11c. The stemming was hard to get into and clipping the bolt just over the bulge was tough, then pulling over the bulge required some hard crimping and very wide stemming for me. Maybe it would be easier in temps below 80 degrees F, as things would be less slick, but it's still a tough one relative to its 5.10 neighbors to the left.

By Ivan Rezucha
Nov 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b

Got on this again last weekend. Neither my brother Paul nor I could climb it straight up due in part to end of day fatigue and lack of motivation. Paul instead climbed it left of the bolt by walking his feet up the diagonal crack, barely in balance with small crimps, until he could high step with the right foot onto the hold on the lip a little down and left from the bolt. This is the same hold your left foot ends up on if you climb it direct. This left variation seems legitimate and is perhaps 2 letter grades easier and far less fingery and reachy than the direct.

By Dana Ernst
From: NH
Nov 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b

No one seems to like this climb, but I love it. I think that this climb is closer to 11b than 11d, even if you go straight up (which is the only way I've ever done it). This climb is much easier than some of the 11c's and d's nearby: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola. Either way, this climb is great.