Ginseng Rush 

The first bolt can be clipped from stemming across the gully. One can start here or from the ground (which is more difficult).Good route.

I agree, this a great climb and much harder in my opinion than its neighboring climb, Jolt Cola (direct start), which is also rated 12a. As you know, getting to the first bolt (w/o the gully stem) requires 5.11 climbing on somewhat dirty, lichen-covered rock, with the first bolt well above the talus-filled gully. Stemming across the gully is still somewhat sketchy and it eliminates the first 10_15 feet of face climbing. In my opinion, the climb would be vastly improved by adding a bolt to the start. I understand that it was originally led on gear in 1985 and subsequently retro-bolted in 1993 by Mark Rolofson. Normally, I would never want to retro-bolt a climb originally led on gear; however, since it's retro-bolted already, I though it would be an improvement to add a bolt and not mess around with stick clips, gully stems, and unnecessary risk. The climb already has a _spicy_ run-out between bolts 3 and 4, and 4 and 5; therefore, I don't feel the nature/character of the climb would be altered.

Mark and I did the first ascent back in 1985 with 2 bolts. We use double ropes and the climb was somewhat dicey in sections with hard to place gear. Mark finished the lead that day and I went back and led it soon after. I thought it was a good route with hard moves and somewhat dubious gear. Mark went back and retro-bolted the route in 1995 adding three or four more bolts. I don't think adding another would hurt either of our feelings. Bob D.

Really powerful climbing for most of the route. Quite a bit harder than JC next door. Small gear at the top not a bad idea, I didn't have any. Must have been one heck of a ride back in the day with only 2 bolts! yikes!