BETA PHOTO: This is a picture of the second (very nice, but sh...
Description
The Vampire scales the entire face of Vampire Rock in 4 short pitches. Although there is a lot of loose rock on this route, I give it three stars because there are quality sections, it has interesting position, thought provoking moves and it's rare to get this far off the deck in Boulder Canyon. I think it's a Kor route.
P1. There are two ways to start. Either climb the bolted route 'That's Weak' up to the chain anchors, or climb the left angling corner system which starts 20 ft. to the right of 'That's Weak' up to the same fate. In keeping with the spirit of the climb, I prefer the original start up the corner system. Some loose rock, but the pro is adequate and it goes at about 5.7. 'That's Weak' is rated .10a but seems easier to me; maybe 5.9 and fun.
P2. Lead up the discontinuous hand and finger crack angling slightly left to the big corner/slot. Climb past two OLD ring pins and work up into the slot (crux). Pull the roof and move right on a low angled slab. Belay about 10 ft. up and right of the slot. I combined this pitch with the next one and had insane rope drag.
P3. Work up and left under the big roof. Traverse to the left side of the overhang on slabular terrain, exit onto the ramp and move up to the right to belay at some chains.
P4. Not sure if we did the correct last pitch, but this way was stellar. Climb up the ramp a bit further and work up into a left facing corner with a nice crack. Good jugs lead up to a steep layback and fist crack, past a basketball sized bush (as of 9/3/02) and tops out on a low angled slab with insecure holds. Continue up to find a good belay on level rock. This pitch felt 5.9 to me but is short.
Decent. We walked off to the southwest to gain the steep, vegetated gully. It was kind of annoying, but safe. There are chain anchors all over Vampire Rock so you could probably do 3 or 4 raps to end where you started. Maybe the norm??
A fun little adventure that seems to see very little traffic.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Sep 5, 2002
I'm glad the reviewer found a good finish. We couldn't find a good way to finish (one possible option looked too bird-poo coated) and ended up traversing right on some very difficult terrain after the end of the second pitch.
3 stars probably IS too generous now that I think about it... Like I said, the route has sections of very good climbing, and it goes to the top, but when pitted against true 3 starred classics of the same grade like Green Spur or Yellow Spur, it *does* come up short. Maybe 2 stars, though. It's a unique climb for Boulder Canyon.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 19, 2003
Not that great. Summit route. Loose. Many better routes out there. Obscure.
We climbed this route yesterday, and while it's enjoyable, I'm not sure if it merits three stars.
That said, I still found the first two pitches to be worthwhile, and if the final pitch hadn't been so shitty (literally full of shit) it would have been great. The crux pitch (P2) is awkward and thin, but pretty straightforward. The roof is pretty easy, but fun; the pro is pretty sparse afterwards though. I got a blue tricam in somewhere that I wouldn't want to fall on on the traverse across the top of the shelf. Fortunately it's a 4th/5.easy traverse that shouldn't be a problem.
All that crap on P4 made me stem most of it instead of the nice hand and fingerjams that I wanted. C'est la vie. If I return to this climb, I'll rappel down after the first couple pitches....
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