I'm hesitant to add this route since I didn't exactly free climb the crux (though my partner did). However, it's an excellent line that should be part of the database. Another reason why I want to add it is because it forms part of a linkup that I want to rave about. P1 might be S if the gear in corners 3 and 4 is placed while free climbing.
This climb is a series of short right facing corners between Athletes Feat and Country Club Crack.
P1: Start with Athlete's P1. After doing the mantle, go straight up the slab to the base of the first corner. You can place an OK #2 RP (or maybe a yellow ball nut) at the base of your corner to protect a couple 5.9ish moves to a finger size slot where you get your first real pro. Note 1: if you blow this and you didn't place the RP or it doesn't hold, you're decking. Note 2: When my partner followed the pitch he had to battle some wasps for possession of the finger slot; the wasps were not an issue when I was leading, thank god. Continue up the corner with good gear until you feel it's time to move left to the next corner. Note 3: excellent #4 Rock placements at the bottom and top of the 2nd corner. Move left to 3rd and 4th corners as appropriate. Note 4: decent #4 RP at the top of the 3rd corner, but not sure how feasible it is to place while free climbing. The climbing gets much easier after corner 4 -- traverse left to the anchors at the end of Athletes Feat P2. This pitch is quite hard for a Boulder Canyon 11 and possibly height dependent.
P2: The rope will run much better if the belayer ties in with a long (~20') tether. Traverse back right the corner system. Steep jamming and laybacking (old fashioned 10+) with small to medium nuts and small SLCDs gets you 30' up the corner where the route joins Country Club about 10' below the roof. Continue up CC to its second belay. The three star rating includes doing P2.
Variation(Athletes Country Home? Englishman's Crack Feat? Shropshire Lad?): Combine P1 and P2 for THE BEST PITCH IN BOULDER CANYON (!?!) if not the Front Ranger (!?!?!): a 150' pitch with three or four different types of 5.11 climbing. Bring a lot of wires, small cams and quick draws.
Protection
Pitch 1: Gear from #2 RP to #2 Friend with key sizes in the Blue, Yellow and Orange TCU range and most importantly, at least 2 #4 Rocks or equivalent. The crux has just enough pro to be completely safe, if you can place it. Pitch 2: P1 gear plus some larger cams for the second half of Country Club P2 (e.g. gold and blue Camalot).
I think this is a great route, one of the best in the Boulder area. In the 'changing corners' section you can have excellent protection above your head for all the hard moves. The 2nd pitch looks much harder than it turns out to be.
If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux finger crack, but it was most likely just the weight of the rope.
However you do this route, it's gotta be one of the best 5.11 trad climbs anywhere. Hats off to Alec Sharp and Bill Feiges for putting this one up.
Sic, Sic...Sic Climb!! One of the best in the Boulder area if you can climb the Grade. Forget the first part of Country club, just do this climb!
BE CAREFUL once you have pulled the mantle, you will certainly deck until you get something in the first dihedral, as mentioned above.
A double set of Aliens, blue to red, is the best pro for this climb, it's almost like cheating. (plus whatever you need for the crux of Country Club) You can do this in one pitch, one rope, if you have a 70m, which will reach the anchors for athletes feet, then another short rappel down.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.11d
I'll agree with the comment above. Sic, sic, SIC climb! The best BC has to offer. I thought Arm's Bazaar was the best until yesterday.
Great pro the whole way with unrelenting moves. Just go for it! Definitely do it as one pitch, and take lots of slings. An 11d onsight and you'll need to have your gear dialed in at the crux for a successful send.
Castle Rock
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