This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral Rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route one. Climb up a short corner with two bolts on the right side of the rock and just left of a chimney. Reach a steep section and crank through the roof (crux) and up to a ramp. Clip a bolt and make cool moves up the arete/face on great holds past the last bolt and into a nice crack system. Continue up to the anchors.
Protection
Four bolts plus small to mid-size gear.
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The roof crux is a grunt. I placed a red Alien at the lip. The higher crux, moving right, was perplexing and fun. I'd call this about 10c if it were trad. I rarely can onsight 10c trad cleanly in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, but was pretty solid on this.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Nov 3, 2006 rating: 5.11a
Perhaps, the answer is that we're the kids of the parents of yesterday ;) Nice route, 3 interesting cruxes, above the 2nd bolt, you can go L or R. L works. Wires & cams to #1 Camalot worked. Interesting variety of moves. Thanks for putting in the route!
The Left Side
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