The Big Sky Corner is the free version of the route Pin Job in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide, page 117, route 24. This is one of the best sport routes in Boulder Canyon and one best technical stemming pitches anywhere. Climb up a groove past three bolt gaining a large ledge. Clip a bolt and traverse right gainging a small ledge. Here were the fun begins. Make a series of technical moves up a steep face to a horizontal crack, make a hard move to gain the corner proper and begin forty feet of technical stemming up the beautiful corner moving left at the overhang. Continue left using small face holds and a pocket in the overhang. One last technical move lead to the anchor. Great route in a great position high above Boulder Canyon.
Smoky - I would recommend a smearing shoe and flexibility! The route is North-West facing so it never really gets into the sun, at least not this time of year (January). The bottom of BSC is a pile but the upper corner is cool / problematic / artful.
I tend to disagree with " AC" comment that the lower section of the BSC is a pile. It is 30 to 40 feet of good 5.10 climbing that will clean up with more ascents. The rest of the climb is stellar!
This is one of the best climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon.After the grassy ledge, the climbing is sustained, very technical and fun. Unlike a lot of climbs these days, Big Sky Corner requires precise technique and not just strength. Not over until you clip the chains.
By Dan Levison From: Boulder May 25, 2005 rating: 5.12d
Mega-classic and technical; maybe the best route at the grade in Bo-Can. Kudos to Vaino and Bob...
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