Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>>
Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks has temporarily closed Boulder Falls due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls. No date was set for reopening the area.
Boulder Falls was still closed as of 5/19/09.
The only legal access to Lower Dream Canyon during this closure is via Upper Dream Canyon.
This route starts on the far left (west) side of Plotinus Wall. Scramble up the gully to a short bolted wall. Just left of a handsize crack in a steep wall follow a line of bolts over a bulge. Gain the slab and climb past several bolts on good rock. Reach a ledge and follow bolts over a steep section into a short corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and the anchor on the left. Excellent route with great protection.
By Frances Fierst Administrator From: Denver, CO Oct 29, 2003
I agree with Roger on this one. The gully is a pain, but it is a nice route. I found the crux to be getting to the third bolt. Maybe I missed something (or I'm short), but I ended up clipping off a crimp.
This is a route where it is better to bring your second up. The view is great! It was much nicer to belay from the large ledge, rather than lowering and belaying in the gully
A fun route. If you brought gear it is best to belay on the ledge behind the gully. If you did not bring gear this is not an option as a fall would pull the belayer off and into the gully.
By Brad Schildt From: Boulder, CO Apr 3, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Gear is really not needed for the belay. Simply clip the first bolt with a long piece of webbing for your belayer. On a breezy day, there is no wind in the gully, which makes for a very pleasant belay with an alpine feel to it.