Wingtip 

FA:  Chip Chace and Steve Levin 1979 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.10c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 65 feet Season:  Faces W/SW Views: 259 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 31, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route ascends a thin overhanging and left-leaning dihedral up and left of the start of "Left Wing."

Go up the gully as for "Left Wing," but continue up for about 25 feet more. Place some gear and get your belayer secured in the corner before starting, as a fall getting into the dihedral (hard) could otherwise send you both for a ride. Start climbing up and to the right to enter the dihedral above the overhanging section. Place thin gear as you then ascend the dihedral on some 5.10 moves past gear from "tiny" to 1.5-inch. Finish from the top of the big flake, as for Left Wing.

This pitch is definitely easier than the like-graded "Left Wing," but you should be solid at the grade or you will get pumped trying to place gear.

Protection 

A standard rack with extra small gear. The route is difficult to protect well, but can take gear. RPs and ballnuts could be placed from strenuous stances to more or less sew it up. Still, do not be at your limit here.

You can TR this pitch from the top of "Left Wing."