1. Scramble up 25' of junky rock a few feet left of a pedestal to gain cleaner rock starting at the big ledge.
2. Start on Mists of Avalon, clipping 2 bolts if desired. This is only 5.7, so it may be best not to create rope drag and just solo to that point and flick the rope over once on the ledge.
From the ledge the fun begins. The rock is solid from there as well, including the two chockstones in the crux. Walk left over the ledge system to a split handcrack created where a few nice chockstones are trapped in a wide crack. The jams throught the roof here were quite good.
Place a a large TCU or small Friend overhead, just below the roof. Get a jam in the crack at the back and crank up over the roof into a jam to the right of the chockstone, which is literally good enough to cut loose and dangle from, by one hand. Move up on this to a jug on the top of the first chockstone, pass another chockstone, and then climb up the widening crack (hands to fist) to the top of the main buttress, just below a second roof. Move up and right to reach the 2-bolt anchor on Mists of Avalon and lower off.
This route might have gotten two stars if it was clean at the bottom, but it wasn't, so it gets one. Like Mists of Avalon it is no destination, but maybe worthy if you are going to spend a day climbing other routes on Avalon.
First Tier
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