This route is, to my knowledge, the ONLY fully bolted sport climb at Cob Rock. It's located on the west side of the buttress, uphill from the more popular routes. Look for a steep wall with 4 bolts and a slung horn for an anchor. It's a worthy climb, though short and somewhat strangely bolted. Might be possible to do a short second pitch up the crack above.
This route is the line of Brownies In The Basin. This was first led by Rob Candelaria back in the 70s. I led this about ten years ago (at 5.9 X). Gear includes a couple RPs (did not have Aliens then), some ways below the crux. To my knowledge some others have led this too, including Chris Archer. No-one has fessed up to this retro-bolting_anyone know who did this? Having said all this, it it certainly a more fun lead with the bolts, and I for one would not particularly like to see them removed. Maybe just for folks to check their guidebooks before drilling! Also watch out, my head got attacked by a falling Stopper while finishing this pitch_it may only have been a #12, but it sure felt like a #48. Painful!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 13, 2002 rating: 5.9 R
I did this route a few years back, and I lead it again last night after it got retrobolted. I skipped the bolts this time. Last night I continued up the crack past the anchor for quite some ways before moving slightly left and finishing the rest of the rock on the arete. This is one long pitch. Done this way the bolted section felt like 5.10a (it felt that way before it was bolted too), the moves for the next 15' are 5.8, and then there is a 5.10b crux above pro when the side-pulls and feet peter out at the same time. From there the route gets more slabby (5.8?) for a while, with so-so pro. When you encounter a broken area and some leaning flakes on the arete to the left, move onto the arete and charge for the top. The arete here is nice and goes 5.9, VS if you are not skipping off to the sides at the final bulge. If you don't liek the runout, you could move hard right at the final bulge and clip the fixed pins with long runners before pulling it there. This is as for Northwest Corner.
As of 8/12/03, the first hanger is missing. The stud is sticking out about 1.5" so you can still loop a wired stopper on it. Check the slings thoroughly before you rap; They're looking a little tattered. Good route!
I just climbed this on Sunday, not knowing what it was. I led it as one long pitch (160') to the top, veering right to join trad route with occasional fixed gear. I thought it was great and felt like 5.10. The first hanger was missing, but cams work just as well. I was drawn to the route more by the crack above the slung horn than by the bolted face. Going to the top makes this a great route rather than just another sport climb.
Someone removed the lowest bolt so this is no longer a Sport climb. Please update the description. Kind of a bummer for climbers who are trying to break into trad by honing our skills on sport routes.
Cob Rock
RSS Feed
