Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Blob Slab
Show routes:
Select route...
A Hike for Y2K 
A Hike With Ludwig Dude 
Crack Tack 
Left Roof 
Old Route 
Out Of Limits 

Out Of Limits 

5.10d R

   

FA: D. Ferguson & S. Wood, 1971
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 49 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 26, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Blob Rock is closed from February 1 to July 31 MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO

Description 

Your appreciation for this route will be directly related to your appreciation for thin slab. I personally liked it.

Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk down to pass two trees and a 2'X2' block of rock at the base that looks like a Tetris puzzle piece stuck to the cliff. Maybe 8' right of there there is a vegetated ledge (left-most of two) and a thin right-leaning seam going up from the right edge of it. Start there and force a line straight up the vertical face to the left hand edge of a flake (you can cheat right and clip a bolt if you like)

I found the most engaging start (5.11-) to be to start with the right hand near said seem on a tiny, sharp crimper, and the left thunb PUSHING on a horizontal that slopes away. The feet are kinda bad, but you can go directly up from there, and it is good fun.

Up above the bolt that you probably ignored (it was to your right) there is a little roof-like feature. There may be a placement in that for you if you are crafty with the small nuts. Pull up straight through that and head up toward the solitary remaining bolt on the face, then up from there to the anchors on top.

Of the routes on the face, regardless of the grade, this one is probably the most runout. Be careful.


Protection 

Uh, an unprotected crux 8' up, a second crux a liitle higher, then few RP's or HB's before a 5.10- move, then a bolt, then a larger nut up higher on 5.8+ terrain.

It is easily TR's from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, which are accessed most easily from the route "Left Roof" which I'd call 5.7, S-