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Agony and Ecstasy, The 
Enema of the People 
Men Are From Mars 
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Security Risk 

The Agony and Ecstasy 

5.14a

   

FA: Direct start Peter Beal, Upper arete Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.14a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 402 page views

Submitted By: Peter Beal on May 14, 2002


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Description 

Ecstasy of the People is the striking bolted arete just left of Enemy of the People and was originally climbed with a traversing start by Mark Rolofson. Now the direct start goes free as a V10 boulder problem, making the upper balancy 12d arete that much more insecure. The whole line is now one of the classic hard free routes in Boulder Canyon so train small crimps and have at it. Full Disclosure: I climbed the start with the first three bolts (which are 2 feet apart) clipped. The first one is a mandatory stick clip, as is the second one. If you fall from the last hard move with just the first two clipped you stand a good chance of hitting the rope (and maybe the starting ledge?) since the low bolt doesn't keep you out of the way. Since I'm a wuss, and the start is truly a boulder problem, I decided to play it safe.

(Now that this route, despite being one of the most striking lines in the Boulder area, has gone five years without a repeat, I am upgrading it to 5.14a in the hope that it will gain more traffic and there will emerge a consensus on the difficulty)


Protection 

9 bolts/anchors maybe a midsized stopper at the top (it's about twenty feet to the anchor from the last bolt).



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By Anonymous Coward
May 25, 2002

Nice tick Peter!

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 1, 2004

Where is this climb - what crag - thanks

By msamet
Mar 1, 2004

I'm gonna go out on a limb here, but I think it's on Upper Security Risk.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Mar 1, 2004

No, it is on "Lower", on the far left side. Look's quite hard for the first 15-20 feet.