BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...
Description
This route climbs a short distance up the dihedral between the Second and Third Elephant Buttresses a few feet before traversing left into a good crack system. Then, (about halfway up the pitch) the route takes off upwards, then left on multiple easy cracks toward a large pine-tree on a ledge. Good jams, good face-holds, and good feet. The gear is quite reasonable, although there are a few spots between cracks where it will not be overhead.
This system appears at the right hand edge of the attached photo.
Protection
A standard rack with doubles of 1"-3" cams for beginning leaders.
Eds. From time to time, slings and rings/links appear on the tree for rappel.
Descents
Eds. There are at least 3 descents possible here:
1. Scramble/walk off left to the gully between the first Elephant Buttress and the Dome. This is probably the safest way off.
2. If there are slings here, you can rappel 85-100' from the tree.
3. You can also down scramble to the aqueduct between the 3rd & 4th Elephant Buttress. When it is dry, it is casual. When it is wet, it can be invigorating to intimidating.
This is a good warm-up/beginner route since the angle is less than vertical and all the jams/jugs are bomber. I led it with 1 set up to 2.5" and was ok. Unless you follow a straight line here, bring long slings and place judiciously to avoid rope drag hell. Do it in the winter w/a pack for an alpine feel.
Fun Climb !!! Good beginner route, plenty of pro and good holds. About 10 feet below the pine tree, there is a choice of two crack systems.... I thought the right-hand option was easier.
A good choice for a beginner leader though will make the beginner think in places, takes a variety of pro well. The route does end at a Pine Tree with some rappel rings, but perhaps a better choice for belaying your second is to sling the huge flake a few feet behind the tree. (this can also be backed up with pro) this puts you in a more solid position for belaying rather than hanging off the tree.
You can reach safe ground, barely, with a 50m rope from the tree.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 15, 2005
As of 8/15/05, someone has removed the rappel anchor (multiple slings and two rap rings) from the tree atop this route. I hope to get back here later this week and replace the anchor.
I wonder why someone would do this? Pine Tree Route is a standard rap route; these weren't bail slings. The 4th-class downclimb between the 2nd and 3rd Elephant Buttresses is tricky and exposed; not a pleasant alternative.
I wish the people responsible for this would act in the spirit of service to the climbing community instead of making things more difficult and dangerous for others.
The walk-off between the Elephant Buttresses and the Dome is casual and not very far. The slings wear away the tree and could/will eventually kill it. There is no reason for a rap station to be there.
Don't forget the irrigation tunnel if you want a second alternative for an easy walk off, water or no water. If someone needs to bail off of EB, let them leave some gear. Things can get pretty desperate up there when a storm blows in.
Anyone could leave some slings if they had to rappel off the tree and found no slings, so it isn't making it more dangerous....
I was looking for something casual on the Elephant Buttresses (and something in the shade) and found this one. Pretty straight-forward, with a couple of bulgy moves where height doesn't hurt; my 5'5" wife had a lot of trouble with the first bulge. 10' below the tree, I headed far to the right on an airy, thin ledge which added a nice finish to the route. Still no rap slings, but the walk-off through the tunnel is easy and lots of fun!
Nice route. The lower bulge can be intimidating for the new leader. Hint: when you see that wide crack don't think offwidth; look around inside the crack for hidden holds and think layback. Great gear can be had in the back of said crack.
There are slings and a single rap ring on the tree.
Second Buttress
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