Tipsey 

FA:  D. Hare, C. Oliver, 1979 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 262 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 11, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+ 8. Dementia, 10a 9. Malign, 7 10....

Description 

Climb as for Dimentia until you reach the small blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner for a short distance. A left-leaning crack will appear on your left, which is not as hard as it looks. Climb up and left on this crack to bypass the overhang (good pro), then from a ledge up to the top of the crags on easy cracks.

Although this line wanders a bit, the drag is not too bad with judicious use of 2-foot runners.

Protection 

Standard light rack up to 3". The pro and plcements are reasonable, but take a few longer slings if you plan to place a lot of gear.