To the right of the Toofers route, there is a large inset that looks and is quite dirty. A short ways right of that there is a small right-facing dihedral that starts at the ground and ends below the left-hand-side of a large roof. Climb the corner/dihedral to the bottom of the roof, step left at a few flakes, and then work up and right through the roof to access a good crack system above. Follow said cracks to the top of the cliff. This system is reasonably easy at the given grade of 5.9 and reasonably protected.
The attached photo is INCORRECT, I believe, and sends a climber off into the dirty chimney and crack system (5.7)
Instead, from where the line disappears around the corner, pull onto the crack visible at the left side of the face above and climb that. It is much nicer anyway.
Watch out for the big pile of animal dropping right below the roof. This climb is a little on the dirty side from top ropers kicking dirt down on it. This route is worth doing, if it is the only route that has not been seiged by the TR gangs.
This is a fine climb. I climb this every visit. Climbs much better and bigger than it looks, which is good because admittedly it looks like hardly anything.
Tony is right, the line on the photo is incorrect. The upper part takes the nice crack above the roof, just as Tony says. Down low I've always started a tad left of the start marked on the photo, directly up to the left side of the roof. Moving right, onto the lip of the roof is really fun, and the crack above is brief but elegant.
Years ago, while soloing this, I was near the top, pulling up the crack, when a toproper, out of sight, but only a few feet above, threw his rope off; no big deal except for the bloodcurdling scream, which I imagine was intended to sound like "R-O-O-O-P-E," right in my ear. Climbers on Cob Rock must have looked over in surprise. I nearly jumped off in fright.
Happy Hour Crag
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