BETA PHOTO: Curb Service. Power past the overhang (10a) and c...
Description
This is a idiosyncratic, litttle, roadside route of a few years back. You can almost belay from your bumper. It lies 8 miles uphill from Elephant Rocks, per Rossiter's guide, on the N side of the road. A small 35-40 ft face which now sports 2 lines.
It started with a wire or small cam to protect an opening slippery crux. Now it is protected by the 1st bolt of the neighboring route. Once you are situated with your L foot on the starting block, you can move delicately L to clip the 1st original bolt (harder) or move up and left and reach far down to clip the 1st original bolt (longer). Long reaches and balance out L to reach a sidepull and clip the second bolt. Then move out left to the arete and up the easier slab around the L. Now there is a 2-bolt anchor to lower from instead of the rap sling of past times.
The neighboring, more modern, more sustained, 4-bolt line (Curb Service) can go at a wandering 10a as you weave holds R and then L of the bolted directissima line.
Protection
Originally small cam, 2 bolts, and possible gear above -- now 3 bolts and possible gear above. 2-bolt anchor.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Nov 20, 2007 rating: 5.11- R
I thought it was closer to 5.11 than 5.10. The runout is something to consider and the clips are awkward. Consider a TR if this is outside of your comfort zone. The climbing itself though was not bad, so I'd give it 1 star.