Just left of Mr. Sandman is a steep, short corner leading to a ramp and steep corner. This is Tooth Fairy. Climb the initial corner making hard moves (crux) to gain the ramp. Go right up the ramp to a steep corner. Climb steep rock up the corner past several bolts on good holds up to the anchor. Excellent and varied climbing on good rock.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 11, 2003 rating: 5.10d
Pretty good route. Two somewhat difficult moves with a sharp hold, then the route eased off to maybe 5.9, a sleeper for anyone who'd on-sight the bottom, which was well protected with easy clips. Flexibility and height help. I don't know what sequence went on the FA, but "belly to the bolts" it felt like hard 5.10/easy 5.11. Disclaimer given that I hardly ever sport climb, so local grades at this crag generally seemed a little easy.
Clip the second bolt and thereafter the route drops to 5.8/5.9. The runouts above are on JUGS. Seems as though the bottom can be done two ways. Straight up is a reach to a jug, but the left face has some interesting stems to a big fin and is a bit more difficult. The start is a bit sharp.
Many wrong-headed grading comments again. 11c is correct -- actually a harder [crux than] the near-by 5.12s, but so bouldery and short-lived that there is no pump factor. Nice 5.10- climbing to the anchor when the business is over.
Anyone can downgrade. Good upgrading requires real knowledge.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 28, 2004 rating: 5.10d
Wrong-headed? What's next, thought crime? Big brother comes Anon coward in the night? Do I catch your logic right that it takes right thinking to upgrade, but that if you find an easy sequence to a climb and you are in fact in the majority there, that you are somehow 'wrong headed' and mentally defective? Sheesh... 11c is hard for me and this climb was a trot. Perhaps the 5.12s nearby are overgraded too, because I on-sighted a few of them as well, FOR WARM-UPS. I guess I'm wrong headed... my head is all wrong, can someone help me get right-headed? Fix my mental defect that allowed such easy passage of this "5.11c" climb? Please fix the next two posters after working on me.
I don't have much experience leading 11s, so I'll defer on the letter grade. I'll agree with the previous poster who wrote that the traverse above the second bolt is interesting indeed.
I did stem out left to get the "fin". It seemed like the logical thing to do given the chalked up holds in that direction. I could easily clip the second bolt from there. I stepped over the roof and then traversed. My partner led it right after I did and although he went left to the fin, he traversed to the right and then stepped over the roof. It looked a lot more civilized that way.
I agree with the above comment that the rightward traverse across the roof (after making the second clip) is a little nerve-wracking. It's not steep but the feet are thin and the handholds are tenuous. I also think that the crux of this route is easier than the crux of The Scientist (11a/b). The upper part of the climb is easier and pleasant.
Left Side
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