Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>>
Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks has temporarily closed Boulder Falls due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls. No date was set for reopening the area.
Boulder Falls was still closed as of 5/19/09.
The only legal access to Lower Dream Canyon during this closure is via Upper Dream Canyon.
The Art of Dreaming starts just right of Sleepless in Boulder and climbs just below the obvious large right-leaning arch.
Climb up into a short right-facing corner. Clip the second and third bolt, traverse right across the face (technical crux) on small holds, making hard moves up to a small overhang. Tackle the roof (5.12a) and climb up beautiful rock to a two-bolt anchor.
Interesting climbing for the first four bolts. Getting past the second bolt is a bit snappy. Moving right might be reachy for some people. A gem at 12a. Keep up the good work.
12a, you're joking A.C. The traverse after the third bolt and getting to the good holds under the roof is highly technical and merits a solid 12 b/c rating. The roof is 12a, and above is very easy. Anyway, I agree it's a great climb, especially now that it's cleaner due to the some climbing traffic.
Surprisingly good. The route climbs much better than it looks. The crux is height /reach related, which may explain the differing opinions on the grade. For my size 5'8" & 0 A.I. it's 12b to the rest, followed by a fun 11a/b roof and a romp to the anchors.
Did this route on Sunday. If you can get to the rest, the upper section is easy. At 5'7" (8") on a good day, height initially felt like a factor however, I sent the route on my second try. In contrast, I have had to work (4-8 attemps) several 12b's and 12c's outside of Boulder Canyon.
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