This is a fun, moderate climb with excellent pro. The first pitch could use some gardening, and is easy 5.5. The second pitch -- belay from bolts -- is trickier, short, and fun. The last pitch has several crack options, and the two on the left both demand an airy small traverse that can be protected well.
I'd call it 5.7 in the harder moves.
Rossiter's book provides approach info. Can't miss this one.
Protection
Pro to 4.5 cam. 2 bolt anchor for first belay. Can sew it all up.
Wasn't real impressed with this route. It's ok....but far from great. I don't know why Rossiter gives it a star. P2 and P3 offer a few thoughtful moves for the 5.6 leader...but that's about it. Bolts atop P1 may be a bit of a stretch with a 50m. I stopped to belay 10+ feet short, but it may have streched.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 14, 2002
You can continue this climb 2 more short pitches above the "walkoff" ledge to the top of the rock. Certainly has some less continuous sections but has a nice corner finish in the same 5.5-5.7 range.
First pitch is relatively uneventful. The second pitch is however very fun with some thoughful airy moves and there are a few route variations to choose from. No crowds and due to the rocks high position in the canyon provides really great views. In the evening you are treated with a sunset over the divide.
This route is not climbed often so watch out for the sneaky lichen.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 25, 2004
The start can be done to the R with a short , tricky 5.7 OW flare that, oddly enough, does not require an OW move. With a 60m rope, you can pass the 40ft anchors (of Cold Fusion) & the 165 ft anchors, to reach the 185 ft anchors on P1. It may be more enjoyable to go R on P2 & do P3 of On Ballet.
On the last pitch there are two routes possible, the one to the right is slightly more difficult and is more of a chimney. If you choose the left route, which it appears most do you have to traverse slightly right at the top of the pitch, there is a massive hold which is difficult to spot from below but if you commit you've made it. The previous chimney is also fun and offers the left and right chimney options. This climb is fun but no jewel by any means.
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