Setting up for the longer reach above the roof. Th...
Description
This route tackles the big roof. Scramble to the base, a short face leads to the roof. Pull the roof using the seam/crack. 5.9 territory the rest of the way. If you belay from the ground (recommended), a 60 metre rope barely gets you down!
Protection
10 bolts? 1/2" x 6" bolts, bomber home made hangers (you won't be able to tell), chain anchors.
What a varied route! Steep slab climbing, slopers, crimps and a strenuous roof - all in 90 feet!
The scramble to the first bolt is fourth class, but beware of loose rock - my rope dislodged a pretty hefty place from the junk. This route is well bolted, pumpy and interesting all the way to the chains.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jun 14, 2006 rating: 5.12a
I'll actually give this one 5.12a as a flash grade. The crux is pretty hard and not obvious. I ended up doing some pretty funky moves to get through it, not to mention power and reach. Check out the photo of the crux set-up.
Fun route. If you avoid going way left up top, then the route is NOT over after the roof.
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