The Bobsled start right of The Art of Dreaming and left of Lucky Strikes. Climb up a short face behind a large pine to a bolt. Clip the bolt and begin a series of continuous moves up into a short right-facing corner above a roof. Follow the line of bolts up the corner past cool moves following steep rock to the anchor.
What a great route! I attempted the route with the draws already on it and the second bolt clipped so I know all you anonymous cowards will diss the send but I got the flash. I can't wait to go back to do some more of the routes on the wall. I also attempted the 11b to the left of the Bobsled, but it was a hard warm up and will have to go next time. Both were a lot of fun. Thanks for the new routes.
I would concur that Bobsled is a bit soft for 12a, however, there is a reach problem passing the first clip that would be very hard if one lacked the ape index or were simply too short. This reflects the primary reason that it is difficult to assign an intrinsically optimal grade to a climb; the subjectivity of the rating can depend so much on exactly how one's own body "fits" the climb. I'm reminded of watching various of the hard core working The Seven PM Show in Rifle where a particularly wide pinch-grip would fit the big bear claws but a small pair of mits could never pop a thumb over the edge of the pinch. So for those with smaller hands the problem was essentially not doable. In the same vein, the reach from the start on Bobsled could be 5.12 for some and 5.11 for others. Overall, Bobsled seemed to offer interesting climbing with very brief cruxes followed by good, no hands, rest stances on solid rock that was well bolted.
Richard, thanks for the comments! Having done the route a couple of times since the first ascent, I feel the grade of the route falls somewhere in the 11c/d grade. The route has cleaned-up very nicely and the first 20 feet are a lot more solid than when we first climbed it. A good route with excellent moves on good stone. Glad you enjoyed it! Bob
I, too, would recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Very nice route. Tom Isaacson
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 11, 2003 rating: 5.11b
Nice route, overall. It has a few 5.11 cruxes with entertainment between. The first bit was fairly clean, but if I were to go back to it, I'd probably spend a little time cleaning it with my fingers, particularly the crystalline granite band by the feet by the first 3 bolts.I found that the sequence was a little something to figure out, but not much to execute. Transitioning into the undercling was tough until I backed down and found the right hands to start from. As well, moving to the second bolt was no prob with the right sequence, which requires either height or flexibility. I got a nearly-hands-free sequence between the two bolts with a great toe-hook/toe lock up and left in a "crotch" of the dihedral.
Good fun and interesting moves. Mind puzzle not physical problem.
Depends on the sequence and upon your height. It's tricky and so I suspect a lot of people will not find the easiest way on-sight. I did see one very good climber trying to figure it out before resorting to aid this AM.
I thought the crux was pulling up around the small roof, near the forth bolt. The moves by the first bolt are a little tough to figure out, but not that hard to execute. A little awkward getting to the anchors.
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