This excellent toprope or very serious lead is located on the pretty slab just to the left of the start of Jackson's Wall direct. The route follows a very tappered crack that runs horizontal for about ten feet and then heads straight up. While most toprope this pitch, it is an excellent route to headpoint and is a must do for anyone with a fondness for granite slabs. A word of advice though, get it wired before leading it.
This route was first led by local climber Chip ? and his partner. A brillant ascent. If you know the names of these brave lads please fix the ascent info. Thanks.
Protection
There are anchors at the top of the first pitch of Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face) for toproping. For leading there is only one piece of gear, a very suspect aid piece past the first crux.
First freed on lead by Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber. There actually is a TCU placement to "protect" the crux, but it takes up a good undercling hold and makes the move a bit harder. Also, the story I've heard is when first led a hammer was used to fix gear (a pin and a head) that has since been removed. It would be easy enough to ask Chip if this is true. A better top rope.
Close To The Edge, the bolted line immediately to the left of this route, is rated a mere letter grade harder (12 a/b), but...in my humble opinion...is a whole 'nuther ball o' wax. I was able to toprope, sans falls (baaaarely), Boot Lead, but was completely shut down on Close To The Edge. Moving off the good feet into the blank section seemed essentially free from the burdens of any hand holds whatsoever...Very, very balancy stuff, both of these climbs, but at least Boot Lead has a hold or two here and there!
I enjoyed TRing Boot Lead very much - the lead would be thrilling enough to watch. I can't imagine the lead myself, with the undercling clogged with an alien.
Wear your stickiest rubber, and don't do it on a hot day... (I wonder if Skip did it barefoot ?!? ;-)
I agree, Close to the Edge is certainly much much harder than the Boot Lead. The stiff rating may reflect a bit of hesitation on part of the FA party to assign a harder grade, although if I recall the crux contains a severe leg-press move, something that the first ascentionist is particularly gifted at. Closer to .12d in my book. The 3rd clip is hard. Some climbers use a longer QD, pre-placed, to facilitate this clip.
Having led both routes, I think the Boot Lead gets its rating from lack of gear and hard moves above shaky gear. I personaly think Close to the Edge is a big sandbag at 12b and found clipping the third bolt the crux. I took a number of good falls trying to clip the third bolt and when I did the route, climbed to the right of the third bolt and found it easier than straight-up. Both routes should be climbed when out of the sun and in cool conditions. Bob
When I did the Boot Lead in 1985 there was a fixed cooperhead and bashie in the seam/crack. The cooperhead was near the crux and I think the bashie was higher up past the crux. Bob.
Glad to hear the agreement re: Close To The Edge...it certainly felt like hard 12 to me...heck, it may as well have been 5.14. :-) If I remember correctly, the best hold on the route sits near the 2nd bolt, and the 3rd definitely seems like it would be the harder clip of the two...of course, I didn't lead it so... Also, the only fixed gear in Boot Lead now (again, if memory serves) is a fairly abused, small hex, well above the first (and harder) crux. Still, I'm sure its a welcome clip once there, for those bold enough to lead this route.
Castle Rock
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