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Fly Trap 

5.11c

   

FA: Dan Hare
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 127 page views

Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 10, 2002


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Description 

This is Steeeep. The definition of jug-hauling. The start is a little spooky, up mank rock to a dicey looking balanced block. Make sure your belayer is not directly below, take a deep breath, yard on this block, and keep yarding. This would get two stars except the crux seems to be clipping the lower-off bolts. These are right in the middle of a hard move, which is (for someone with a tiny brain like myself) pretty distracting: Clip and grab, or keep going? Best to pretend they are not there, because there are jugs three or four feet higher.


Protection 

Several bolts to a lower-off



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By Chris Archer
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.11c

I'd agree with Crusher's assessment.: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences.