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"S" Buttress, The 
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The Juice 

5.12d

   

FA: Rolofson, I think.
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 542 page views

Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Dec 2, 2001


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Dan Levison pulling the roof on The Juice. Photo ...


Description 

This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (myself included), it's a little bit dynamic and definitely super-reachy. A fantastic route.


Protection 

12 QDs or so. Double bolt anchor.



Add Photo Photos of The Juice
Ted about to latch the finishing jug.

Ted about to latch the finishing jug.