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For Whom the Bell Tolls 

5.11b

   

FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 188 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Oct 15, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: Routes Above The Patio


Description 

A slanting, right-facing corner on the far right side of The Patio.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor



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Vaino on the FA.

Vaino on the FA.


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By Fred Knapp
Jul 15, 2002

I enjoyed the route, but differ with the grade. In real-life it's 11b. It looks like Sport Park grades are becomming the norm in Boulder Canyon. -Fred Knapp

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jul 15, 2002

Hey Fred, it's nice to have some of your opinons on this site. So, what is real life? Bob

By Steve Levin
Jul 16, 2002

Bob, real life is what happens between sessions on climbingboulder.com, or is it the other way around?

And I agree, it's nice to have Fred's input.

One person's 5.9 is another's .10c, so as long as we're all having a good time, who cares?

By Brad Bond
Jul 23, 2002

Be sure to do your yoga beforehand as the wide stemming in the 10+ corner was about enough to pop my stiff legs out of joint. I had to boulder up and down the tricky crux start about 97 times before figuring it out, but I have to agree with Fred: 11b, though really fun climbing all the same.

For those who get offended by overbolting, the right-leaning corner, which looks blank from below, will hold bomber gear placements that could easily eliminate 3 or 4 bolts. Placing the pro would make it more challenging, as the gear might fill some of the fingerlocks, but the gear would be pretty darn good. If the unneeded bolts bother you, "you shoulda done it first" and "go climb somewhere else," etc.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 18, 2003

Interesting problem, interesting climbing, solid stone, fun stemming moves on friction pads. Watch your footing on the ledge below the anchor; this would be a nasty place to fall. Bit of a stretch for the last clip. Kudos again to the prolific Bob and Vaino.