Great Route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the left of two cracks up to the bolts.
Protection
8 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. The bolts are about 10 feet below the summit. You can rappel down, or throw some shorter slings around the pinnacle and belay from there. Note: a 60m rope is recommended for this route. It's possible with a 50m, but not as comfortable.
A very sustained route with a lot of 5.11 moves. Some of the clips are difficult, but overall it is well protected. Be solid on 5.11 before leading this one.
I don't think one could argue that traversing right to the crack undercling and sidepull is off. However, it's pretty fun and interesting to climb the majority of this route just left of the crack system.
Myke et al. About the 5.11 rating you give this climb. I don't agree with it at all. There is very little chance someone not strong on 11's would get this route on the onsight, which I assume is NOT what you grade routes at. Once you have done the route 30 time, surely it gets easier, but by no means is this 11, a solid 11b, with several 5.11 moves in the mix. As for traversing to the underclings, it surely does ease the climbing, but overal maybe by a letter or 2 at most.
This felt much easier than 5.11c, 11a sounds closer. If you avoid the obvious undercling then the line might go at 5.11c. But this appears to be seldom done with the flake and undercling at hand's reach.
One of the clips up high (2nd to last I believe) is a tough clip. I downclimbed to a decent stance and looked at the body position again before doing it. Nice route Dan.
Main Crag
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