This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of 'Take the termites...' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the rightmost of the 2 routes, beside 'Oil Pan Hook Shot'. I am not sure what Rick was thinking, but he must have been desperate to put new routes up, this one could have been left out.
The climbing starts atop a block past the first bolt, over a little roof on good holds and then up the slab to the last 2 bolts on the arete. Here the climbing is just not fun, striaght forward but to keep away from the corner makes a challenge, as there are few holds on the face. I would only do this route if you happen to expend the energy to check it out, without reading this. Do something else... :) Pretty hard to get to the anchors, as they are over the edge a bit, if you try it, lower to the anchors from a tree above.
I definitely questioned the intensions of the FAist on this route. Other than pulling through the bulge at the second bolt, there was nothing worthwhile about it. Up above, it wandered aimlessly, entered the gully, then climbed the arete with a ledge and dirt for feet, and having to reach way around the corner to get to the hand holds. It could have been designed much better to create a better route, in my opinion, or left out all together.
I thought it made an entertaining second pitch to Mosquito Burrito. It's way easier than 10a if you ride the gully though. The (short) jug haul is fun but the arete is just plain weird.
Main Crag
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