Super Squeeze 

The old Erickson guide book contained numerous bon mots and pearlsof wisdom. He hit the nail on the head when he wrote of Supersqueeze (I quote from memory): "a 10 foot stretch of climbing which requires every textbook technique".

The climb is pretty unique and interesting, but the difficulty is definitely body-size dependent. I'm a relatively small person, but after climbing this, I have raked areas on my back and chest at the shoulder blades/pecs, and then a big raked area at the top of my big butt. I am 5'10 and only weigh 165. Larger climbers beware. To get my chest through I had to exhale and wiggle, to get my butt through I had to dangle my legs and relax, then swing my feet back and forth like a pendulum to wiggle through.

For gear, you should rack it all to the sides, not a single biner behind you on the gear loops. Take stoppers + thin-hands sized gear (1.5-2" cams) and one good-hands or wide-hands piece and you can protect it very well.

Presently, one pigeon has made this home. I literally scooped a few piles of dry poop out of the left hand holds prior to the crux.

One star, normally, but maybe one less than that to account for the pigeon poop. Even the belay is tar-and-feathered with pigeon crap and feathers presently.

5.10d, but more for the will required than the skill required. Large people will find it harder, exceptionally small people will find it easier, both due to the hand jams available (tight green to purple Camalot) and the lesser struggle squeezing through the slot.

The old 1/4 inch bolt was being backed up by a nut and a huge somewhat loose chockstone, and about 15 different slings, so I cut most of the crappy webbing off and unslung the chock stone and [equalized] a [BD] 13 nut and the 1/4 incher with a [piece] of 8 mm cord that is [in ok] condition it is [fairly] bomber now. I was surprised that anyone let it get in such bad condition, it was one of the biggest messes that I have seen, so if you get up there and [don't] like what I did, take out the old stuff before you add in your bit, 1 [cordalette] should be [sufficient], and if you [don't] get too sketched out [just] use the bolt, it is solid.

Ron Olsen and I replaced the 1/4" bolt at the belay. Unfortunately, not only was the existing bolt a mere 1" deep in the rock, it was also in a hollow flake. We searched high and low for a spot to place the new bolt that was good rock and finally decided up and left. The new bolt is a 3/8" SS Rawl five-piece bolt.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

Made me feel like a piece of protection.

Did this last night and it is still owned by the Pigeon King.
I felt that this route was definatly harder then any other 10 I have climbed anywhere. This come mostly due to the Bird crap that greeses every hold through the crux. This climb was the closest my head will ever get to being in the rectum of a bird. Great movement but route gets 3 demerit points for it's condition