This is Unknown I in the topo. The route starts up the hill from the main crag. Stay below the rock wall at the top of the main wall just past "Dynamic Duel". There are two 2-bolt anchors at the bottom of this route.
The route starts with the middle line of bolts (using rightmost 2-bolt anchor). Pull past 2 close bolts for the start (crux) and continue on easy terrain to the top of the first pitch (anchors shared with route to the right) 6-7 bolts.
For the second pitch, you may continue up and left or up and right. This route takes the rightmost line of bolts, which pulls through 2 small roofs onto a partially lichen covered wall to the achors above. One should place long draws on the first 4 bolts of the second pitch. Second pitch contains 7-8 bolts.
To lower from this route, you must have a 60m or two 50m ropes to get to the ground, or a 50m to reach the first anchor. Would be a very nice route with some more cleaning. I would suggest the route beside this to be of the same grade, perhaps a little bit easier. Have fun.
Protection
2 pitches (or 1 long one, with extended draws) / 2-bolt anchors. 100' from top anchors.
Alan, do you know why these routes were not included in the sporting climbers guide book for boulder canyon, as they do not seem to be THAT new. The grading thing is debatable I guess. I dont think the route could go much harder than say 10d, especially if the rock was clean. It would make a big difference.
There's another route called Coloradoddity on Big Ass Slab at Lily Lake, climbed in 2001 by the same guys with the same name. This makes me curious. 2 guys name 2 sport routes in 2 separate areas the same name in the same year? http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado/estes_park_valley/co_h>>>>> Anybody know which one is real? Both?
Easter Rock
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