Start just right of the fallen tree. (route to the right of The Penguin) Climb into a right facing dihedral, staying a little left of the 5th bolt. Finish the route with a high hand beside and left of the anchors or traverse right at 6th bolt onto the covered ledge. (5.10'ish) A great dihedral with tricky feet and body positions, look for crimp on face by 3rd/4th bolt to get the feet and body up.
Just did this route a couple days ago-- tricky, esp. as a warm up! Three of us did the route, 3 different variations for doing the crux. It's a lot harder than it looks from the ground. The Joker, 3 routes to the left, is a better warm up, though that has a couple thoughtful bits as well...
Oh, and we stayed dry in the rain!
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Jul 29, 2007 rating: 5.11b
The first 3/4 of the route has very delicate, balancey moves. Everything feels insecure like you are just about to smear off. Then a good rest and a huge jug rail to the anchors...which I eloquently flopped across in true beached whale fashion. Not sure how much fun it would be blowing the anchor clip on this climb. Satisfying climb for me though.
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