Climbs the steep face and overhanging arete right of Dyno Monkey. Jug and heel hook your way up the big overhanging slab on some very nice (comfortized?) pockets. The crux is pulling on to the upper slab. Fun, well protected and good for a neat photo, but I would liked to have had a try at the arete "au naturel".
I got a chance to climb this route just after it had been bolted but before it was "complete." Before the hammer, you actually had to use the finger crack which splits the big block while squeezing the edge of the arete. It was tremendous fun and probably 5.11-. Two weeks later that same winter I returned and found a 5.9+ bucket traverse up the arete. Climb this route and imagine what was and don't think you just ticked an 11a as the "guide" book states.
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