Surprisingly fun climbing! The last move is a ridiculous toss for which I absolutely could not get the feet right. Are people tossing all the way to the jug or to the micro crimps on the slopey lip? Beta please! The bolts are close enough together though that you can yard up to the last bolt and work the crux on TR.
This route has a 2nd pitch that is pretty good -- rated 5.11c in Rolofson. Technical stemming up a slightly overhanging wall -- a junior version of Meteor Roadblock. A couple of the key holds are covered in guano.
This route is great with two dynamic moves in a row. Careful when you throw the dyno, it's easy to over toss for it. Also, after I make the first right hand lunge to the sidepull and stack my left hand under my right on the tiny edge, I set my feet to the right and dyno up with my left hand. This beta worked well for me. And to whoever stole my biners off the top of this route I say, "You, my cheap conscienceless sociopath, are a tool!".
By Dan Levison From: Boulder Oct 1, 2005 rating: 5.12c
Moderate climbing to a rest to a V5 boulder problem.
By The Uninvited From: North Boulder CO Apr 24, 2008 rating: 5.12d
I loved this route... it was my first for the grade... the book said 12d. So I hope it is solid....
Easily the best route at the Bowling Alley in my opinion; it would be clasic if the first half was 5.12 instead of 5.10.
By the way, what's with all this talk of dynoing? I locked off on a sidepull crimp and used a little momentum, definitely not a dyno.
By Joshua Merriam From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2008 rating: 5.12+
There is a left-leaning, slightly gaston crimp 10" down from the jug. I was able to go to it and then bump to the top. My left foot is backstepped on the previous crimp. But for me (6', +2) it's easy enough to just go all the way. Deadpoint at least, might call it a dyno.
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