Carol Kotchek at the last bolt. Her next pro will...
Description
Rossiter calls this route "Thrill of the Chaise", but "Cheers" seems slightly more in line with the crag "naming conventions" (if there is such a thing).
Begin as for Dementia, but move right into a big, easy left facing corner (I remember going a few feet right of the line shown in the photo here).
From the left facing corner, clip a bolt on the face to the left (this is a bit of a stretch). I find the crux is getting onto this face. Once on, climb straight up past another bolt to the top. You can place wired stoppers above the last bolt. Rossiter's topo has a two bolt anchor but I do not remember one in 1998. These would make toproping Cheers convenient.
Protection
Light rack to 2". This is not a sport route.
Add PhotoPhotos of Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars.
From the anchors you can also TR the right hand side of the arete directly to the left of this. This is essentially the outter edge of dimentia. It goes solid 5.11 with a single move to the right escaping the arete before returning to it just after. Climb from the top of the arete to the bolts. There would be no protection on lead.
Without this escape move, the route might be 5.11+.
I thought above the second bolt was the crux. There is a bomber jug out right, but I couldn't really reach it, so slapped sloper and pulled hard. A green/yellow offset Alien provides comfort in the pod area. Committing layback to finish.
This route has seem some alteration. I climbed this route for the first time in 1998. I remember the finish through the layback to be committing. It was an exciting route and my favorite on Happy Hour. I warm up here on the way to Security Risk a lot. I went back in 2000 or 2001 I cannot remember and someone had carved a small horn in the rock before the finishing layback moves. I could now throw a sling around the horn and protect the moves. It looked like someone brought a grinder up there and ground the horn down. This should be placed on the modified route list.
The horn can still be slung but it could easily be kicked loose even with a slider knot. I placed a red alien just above it in the an undercling part of the lie-back. (Looks like a chipped hold too). That's really the only pro past the second bolt.
Not bad. I also thought the crux was moving above the second bolt and getting that good hold out right. The first time I led this I traversed in to the bolts pretty low and thought it was a bit harder than 10a. The second time up I went a little higher up Malign and stemmed with my right foot on a flake and my left on the face until I could easily move over onto the face. I was a little bit above the first bolt doing those moves.
Kudos to everyone going out to clean the fucking peace signs off the rock. Good luck. Aside from the aesthetics, their effect on the route is pretty minimal, for what it's worth. A couple of the footholds are painted over and a bit slippery.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 15, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Thought this was a wee bit harder than easy 5.10 to onsight, but seemed pretty easy a second time on TR once you knew the holds. I placed some mid-sized nuts down low and a #6 near the top...probably about a green Alien size pod. The horn did make it a lot easier.
By percious From: Arvada, CO May 15, 2008 rating: 5.10a
I have no idea what this horn is that everyone is talking about. I found the last few moves to be the crux, but then I got into the layback and it went really easily. You can sew up the last layback with a blue and yellow tcu if you like. A stopper would also work there.