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Vampire Rock
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A.C.E. 
Blood Doll 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The 
Chupacabra 
Climb-Eye-Knight 
Crack of Desperation 
Fear of Sunlight 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The 
Heart of the Narrows 
Le Stat 
Monkey's Uncle 
Pin Cushion 
Stage Fright 
That's Weak 
Trash It and Move On 
Vampire, The 
Wanker 

Fear of Sunlight 

5.11d

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 146 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 23, 2005


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Description 

From the belay ledge above the first pitch of Le Stat, there are two bolted lines on the face above. The right line is the excellent 2nd pitch of Le Stat. The left line is Fear of Sunlight.

Begin with tricky moves along the rounded arete. A ledge system at mid-height provides a rest before tackling the crux finish.

The upper section seems squeezed and contrived, as one can easily switch back and forth from easier climbing on Le Stat in several places. Not only that, but a poor bolting job at the crux forces one to face a potentially dangerous ledge fall. Since most people will likely climb Le Stat first, before leading, it is highly recommended that one place a 24" draw on the 2nd to last bolt when lowering off the shared anchor.

Climbing the lower half of this route into the upper part of Le Stat makes an excellent 11a.


Protection 

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Le Stat.