This is the farthest right of the routes. Scrabble up the hillside from the creek about 50 ft to the base of the crag. The route, named after an enchanted forest in "The Lord of the Rings", follows five bolts up a great slab, with perfect 2 pad deep incuts up its length. This is a great beginner lead, with the bolts just far apart enough to give one a little thrill, yet easy enough to clip from stable stances. One of the better 5.8s I've climbed when looked at in this manner. The route tops out on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Now the route sports *five* bolts and a two bolt anchor. It is good fun, but I wouldn't call it a great beginner route. It is a low-angle and very positive, but the five bolts protect a 25m pitch - you do the math... I suspect that most gym-bred beginners will not be happy with the potential tumbling falls. A competent Eldo 5.8 leader, no problem.
By Jake Wyatt From: Longmont, CO Oct 19, 2003 rating: 5.7
The route is relatively nice and clean, and all the holds are positive. No need for any smearing on this slab.
By Jared Workman From: Boulder Aug 24, 2006 rating: 5.6
Maybe it is because it is a sport climb, but if the 1st pitch of the First Flatiron Direct route is 5.6 and Frictionary at Sport Park is 5.7, then there is no way this is any harder than 5.6.
By percious From: Arvada, CO May 31, 2008 rating: 5.7
I think this one could be traditionally protected with some lightweight runouts.
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