Kirk Miller took this picture of Mark Rolofson jus...
Description
This is one of my favorite sport routes in Boulder Canyon, and one of the pumpiest under-vertical climbs I've ever done. It's the middle route of 3 that are located about 50 yards uphill and right (up the gully) from "Bolt Cola" and "Where Eagles Dare". For me, there are several distinct cruxes, some of which are pump-induced as you get higher. Well protected, sustained, and perfect rock. I might even argue that it's hard for the grade, at least on the onsight (and I'm a notorious sandbagger). If slightly slabby climbing isn't your forte, be warned: you'll find few good holds on this route.
I think there is an extension which makes for a really long pitch through a roof at the top. I agree with the rating but there are apparently two ways to do it, on the right being "easier." I went left and fell onsighting. I looked at the right way and couldn't do it. Even on redpoint it felt very hard for the grade.
Yeah, you can keep going through the roof. I was way too pumped to even consider it by the time I got to the anchors. Supposedly (according to Rossiter) you can climb to the right below the third bolt and avoid the crux. I haven't tried it that way, though. I'd say it's harder than a number of the 12b or c routes at Clear Creek, so an accurate grade might be closer to 12b. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it, unless someone thinks of a better excuse for the butt-kicking I got on this route. Good to hear that at least one other person thought it was hard.
Excellent tech fest which seems dubiously hard on the first go. Linking both pitches is my recommended approach, however, beware of rope drag in the crack above the roof while lowering off ( rap probably best ). Fun and sustained, it will feel much steeper than it looks....
Excellent route, it's not harder than 12a, especially when compared to Respite, The New Ticket, or Ginseng Rush on Blob. I think the Rolofson guide book still calls the direct start 11c, which might be a little soft. Either way, a great pitch on clean granite.
I just want to echo how great this route is. It's rare to find a route that is fun, quality, and has you thinking from the very first move to the very last...and both variations of Jolt Cola offer exactly that. The 12a variation has harder single moves, but the 11c path (to the right) is more sustained. Great climbing. One option is to lead the 11c variation, then set up a TR on the 12a on the rap if you don't feel like leading the 12. Awesome route! (Oh, and the ratings feel accurate to me, if anyone gives two squats).
The right variation on the lower half (11c) makes for more varied climbing--a traverse right then back left once again towards the third bolt... Watch out for a hard fast pendululum if you come off! I disagree with the route description--that there aren't many good holds--there are. And when you figure out the sequence, it goes nicely. A definite three star climb in my book!
My buddie, Aaron Cloud, and I did this route the other day and were both well impressed with its quality. Well it is an excellent climb, the direct version (going straight from bolt to bolt, in good obedient sport climbing style) never felt harder than 11d. After every hard sequence, which were never more than 2 or 3 moves long, there was an jug to shake out on. A great climb and a good warm-up for the harder routes up the gully.
FIRST ASCENT: Ken Trout, December, 1993. It took five nights, after work, using a headlamp, to bolt and scrub this ugly duckling just to the first anchor.
Mark Rolofson added the finish up the roof, 2000.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Dec 21, 2007 rating: 5.11+
One of the better routes in BC. Ridiculously hard onsight for the grade. Once you figure it out though it flows really well.
Only did first pitch, sun going down and pretty cold. We did leftish variation between 3rd and 4th bolt. Odd bolt placements here kind of throw off the flow. There were several chalk dots where it almost looks like somebody is thinking of moving the 3rd and 4th bolts slightly left. This would kind of improve the climbing as the clipping wouldn't detract quite so much. First pitch felt pretty accurately graded in Rolofson's guide at 11c/d. Tricky, technical, but nor really too pumpy.
I'd give first pitch 3 stars. 4 stars if 4th bolt (in particular) was moved to the left about a foot. Good times!