Knight With a Shining Stick 

FA:  [Matt Buckner and James J. Funsten VI, mid 1990s] Type:  Aid Views: 313 page views Submitted By: Steve Levin on Sep 28, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is a challenging aid route up the blank wall between Jackson's Wall Direct and Englishman's Home. There are several sections of tenuous and continuous heading, or at least sections of fixed heads. Off the top of my head I can't think of anything else in Boulder Canyon that offers as sustained and sheer an aid line as this. The climbing could be half-way up El Cap if it wasn't for the smell of exhaust from cars driving by below the crag.

Begin on the Jackson's Wall Direct, but where that route hand traverse left continue up and right through some arches, then head up to the top of the second pitch of Never a Dull Moment and belay. Now follow tiny, improbable features that connect the blank wall between Athlete's Feat and Country Club. Belay at a ledge 30 feet left of Country Club anchors.

Protection 

There may be lots of fixed heads scattered about on this climb, but bring a selection of heads, including circle heads, some hooks, a beak or 2, same with rurps, RPs, and a full rack to 3.5" cam (you may not use it all). You may want to have a few blades, LAs, and baby angles along, but this is not a piton-intensive route. Helmet.