Another 5.9 gear route for shade-seekers, this climb is actually better than it looks. Left of, and around the corner from Cosmosis, is an overhanging corner (The Spoils), and left a bit further is a prominent chimney with two hand cracks forming its margins (a recent bolted line climbs the right wall of the chimney). Brave a bit of initial funk, then jam and stem your way past the bulging chimney. Continue up, then right at a small overlap to a ledge and belay. Proceed up and right on wandering terrain to join upper Cosmosis. It is also possible to reach the anchors atop the first pitch of The Spoils (or the anchors atop Stu's bolt route), by moving right out of the chimney, or you can devise a way to move left to anchors atop Grand Inquisitor (unless my memory is failing me...a possibility, by the way).
I've was a local of the South Platt and seen that area's Bolt Wars... while I wish there was no retrobolting and live for long trad days, I hope all Bolt War veterans head the newish conduct.
Just remove the hangers... it'll do the job... when you start chopping and crowbaring things it's always the rock that loses no matter who is right. Somebody will come back, make a new hole etc...
Bell Buttress - Main Crag
RSS Feed
